Men Style

One of my favorite looks is finally hitting the streets in a big way. Recently I've been seeing denim trucker jackets worn as layers under outerwear. I love this look! (and have for some time). Here are some recent examples shot by GQ's new street photographer during NYC fashion week:

SB

So much positive feedback. And I can't stress the importance, and benefit, of simple alterations.




Can jacket sleeves be "opened" (made working)?

Yes. However, this is very tricky work, and only a very good tailor (one who works for a custom clothing shop, for example) will be willing and able to punch holes in a garment. Cost: approx $25-35 per sleeve




Can pleated pants be made flat-front?

Technically, yes, but this involves remaking the entire waistband of the pants, and re-engineering the fit. The results can vary, not to mention it is very expensive. Cost: just get some new pants, it will likely be less expensive and you can ensure the proper fit




Can a shirt be taken-in (made slimmer)?

Absolutely. I've had the body slimmed on dozens of shirts. It's a simple cut and sew. Also, the sleeves can be taken in as well. Cost: $15-30 body, $10-25 sleeves

No. (unless you find some similar fabric to be added at the shoulder...which is ridiculous...so no)



Can shirt sleeves be made shorter?

Yes, by some seamstresses. The sleeve is removed, fabric is cut, and sleeve is re-attached. Cost: $20-35 per sleeve. 

Thanks for reading. 

More to come...

Yours in style,

SB

I've said it time and time again, looking good in your clothing is all about fit! It's much better to have a $250 H&M suit that fits properly then to have a $2500 Armani suit that doesn't. Trust me!

With that said, when shopping for tailored clothing it is important to understand what alterations your tailor (and by tailor, I mean your typical local seamstress) can and cannot do. So here is a brief FAQ of basic tailoring services along with approximate price ranges (based on NYC prices).



Can the shoulders be extended (made larger)?

No.



Can the shoulders be taken-in (made smaller)?

In theory, yes, but this means reconstructing the entire jacket and can be very expensive (in many cases, more expensive than the jacket itself). For this reason, make sure you buy a jacket that fits properly in the shoulders! Cost: not worth it



Can the sleeves be made longer?

In most cases, yes, but only by the amount of fabric that is available on the underside of the sleeve, up to the beginning of the sleeve lining (see pic below). Also keep in mind the if the jacket has working or "surgeon's" buttons, those holes cut in the fabric cannot be covered or moved. A good tailor can, however, add a button hole or two if necessary to balance the extended sleeved (I wear 5 buttons on my sleeves anyway). Cost: $15-30 per sleeve (extra button hole(s) not included)






Can a suit sleeve be shortened?

Yes, but again, if the buttons on the sleeves are functional, then shortening the sleeve can bring the button holes awkwardly close to the end of the sleeve. Handle proportions with care. Cost: $15-30 per sleeve



Can a jacket be let-out (made roomier) in the sides?

More than likely no, because a typical off-the-rack suit comes with very little seam allowance on the sides.



Can a jacket be taken-in (made slimmer) in the sides?

Yes! This one alteration can make a significant improvement in the fit of the jacket. Cost: $25-$60



Can a jacket be made longer?

No.



Can a jacket be made shorter?

In theory, yes a jacket can be "chopped", but this is risky because it can throw off the balance of the pockets as well as the proportion of the button stance. Cost: $80-100+



Can the "roll" at the back of my neck be removed?

Yes, but only by an experienced tailor. Cost: $50-75




Lastly. Is it worth paying $50-100 in alterations for a jacket or suit that wasn't very expensive?

ABSOLUTELY.




More to come...



Yours in style,

SB

I've received many comments and questions regarding my recent post about super-skinny ties, and the correct ratio/sizing. Here is a simple rule that can easily help with your proportions:



Your tie, at it's widest point, should be about the same width as your lapels (or slightly slimmer, but never wider).

This will give you a good balance. And as we all know, life is all about good balance.



Yours in style,

SB