Men Style

Can you wear a pocket square in the breast pocket of your overcoat? I suppose you can, but I don't recommend it. However, this doesn't mean you have to keep your favorite coat's breast pocket empty.



Instead, throw your gloves in there when you are not wearing them, i.e.:

Reader: 



My question is about sizing a suit properly.  I am about 6 feet tall
and weigh about 185-190 pounds and I just finished playing college
football.  I am not really muscular but
in order to get the proper fit in the chest I have to go with a suit with pants that are much too big in the waist.  I
understand I need to get the suit altered, but they can only take-in the waist
so much right?





Thanks SB!

SB:



Hey. Thanks for reading.



Like alot of my friends, you have an athletic build which makes it hard to fit suits. Unfortunately for guys like you, the standard suit comes with a 6 or 7 inch "drop", meaning the waist measurement of the pants is 6 or 7 inches smaller than the chest measurement of the jacket (i.e. suit size 40, waist size 33 or 34). Since we are all human and rarely fit this standard mold, this makes it difficult for many guys to buy suits off-the-rack. 



Unless you are ready to make the jump to custom, you need to buy suit separates rather than suits. Think of it as a matching jacket and pants sold separately of which you can choose any size. Get the jacket in whatever size fits you in the shoulders and chest, then you can easily have the sides taken-in and the sleeves lengthened/shortened at your local tailoring shop (or have it done at the store when you buy the jacket). Get the pants in whatever size fits your waist best, the less taking-in/letting-out the better.



Hope this helps,

SB

Reader:



Great Blog, as always.  I'm 6' 6" with a slender body type and in a
dress shirt my sleeve length is 36/37.  It's always been a challenge
for me to to find long sleeve casual shirts that fit my arms. Most
manufacture's XL shirts are way to baggy on me and look sloppy and I
generally am better with a Large-Tall size shirt. Since a lot of the
nicer clothing brands don't carry Tall sizes I'm limited in what I can
wear and end up shopping a lot at Banana Republic, who does.  Any tips
on how a tall man can expand his wardrobe and dress stylish?

 SB:



Hey, thanks for reading. Coincidentally, after playing basketball in college, many of my friends are of the tall variety (think 6'6" to 7'1") so I can relate to what you are going through.



You have the right idea with not sizing-up just to get the added sleeve length. Definitely look for the Large-Tall size rather than traditional XL. Stick with shirts that fit you in the neck and shoulders, then if necessary you can easily get the sides taken-in at your local seamtress for about $10-$15. Between Bananarepublic.com, Jcrew.com and Polo.com, who all carry tall sizes, you should have more than enough selection. Each one of these brands makes a quality product, so if you know how to put it together, you can look just as good (if not better) than shorter guys wearing the "for small guys only" high-fashion brands.



Hope this helps,

SB

...or are tv characters becoming more and more stylish and fashion-forward?



It started with Gossip Girls' uber-preppy, and equally as cocky, student/rich kid Chuck Bass (played by Ed Westwick). 

Then came the great 1950's chic advertising guru Don Draper (played by Jon Hamm) on Mad Men.






And most recently, Neil Caffrey (played by Matthew Bomer) debued yesterday as "the world's coolest [and best dressed] con man" on White Collar.






Not that I watch much tv, but if this is the direction that series' are heading, maybe I'll start making more time to watch.



Yours in style,

SB

 The most stylish guy you know probably wears used clothing. However,
shopping at vintage, second-hand and thrift stores is a very different
experience than shopping in department stores. It can certainly be
overwhelming looking at racks and racks of used clothing. So here are
some helpful tips:



1. Do your research. Search online for the vintage stores in your area
with the biggest selecion / best prices. Keep in mind that some of the
more popular vintage stores can get pricey, but this does not mean the
clothing is better quality.



2. Know what you are looking for. Before you head to the store, make a
list of things you would like to add to your wardrobe. For the most
part these stores are arranged by "type of clothing", for example all
the denim jackets are in one section, so a list of what you are looking
for can help you navigate the usually jam-packed racks and piles of
clothing. If you've never shopped vintage before or are unsure what to
pick up, here are my top vintage go-to picks...

•  denim jacket (the classic levi trucker is my favorite)

•  denim/chambray shirt

•  black or gray leather jacket

•  
  military utility jacket

•  
  authentic wool Navy peacoat

•  
  levis 501 jeans

•  
  lace-up boots

•  
  chunky cowichan cardigan sweater

•   brown antique-looking leather belt

•  
  flannel casual button-down shirts (plaid/check patterns are the most popular right now)

3. Inspect the clothing. If you find something you like, make sure to
look it over for holes, rips, stains, etc. Look on the inside for
fraying seams as these could easily let go. Smell the fabric to make
sure it doesn't smell like grandpa (or worse).



4. Try it on! Fit is even more important when wearing vintage, you
don't want to look like you're wearing your big brothers hand-me-downs.



5. Get to know the person who runs the joint. These stores are usually
owned and operated by one or two people, and they are usually the
coolest, most interesting people you can meet. They're also the buyers
for the store so if you can't find what you're looking for, odds are
they can pick it up on their next buying trip.



6. Wash it before you wear it. You don't know where it's been, or how long it's been sitting around getting musty in the store.



7. Don't go full vintage right away.  Wearing vintage from head to toe
is risky. If you're new to vintage shopping start working your "new"
pieces into your wardrobe slowly by matching them with staples you
already have.



Good luck, and happy shopping.



Yours in style,

SB

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

One thing that I try to touch on from time to time is etiquette. I believe in being a gentleman and doing good by others. So who better to feature in a guest post about etiquette than my very own Mom! (Who is the blog's biggest fan and reads every post and every comment :)




Mrs. T:




"You should try to do something nice for someone else once a day.  Once I was in the drive-thru at Tim Hortons (the Canadian equivalent to Dunkin Donuts, but much better!) and the person in the car ahead of me paid for my coffee.  That made my day. So later on I did the same for someone else. Little things like that rub off and make the world a better place. Or it could be just listening to someone who doesn't get a lot of attention or paying a compliment to brighten someone's day. Just a thought."




I couldn't have said it better myself! 




Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

I love shopping at second-hand and vintage stores. Not only is it a great way to shop on a budget, but you can find some really unique pieces. In fact, some of the most stylish people I know only shop at these kinds of stores! Check out these vintage threads I just picked up.



Plaid Wool "Work" Coat ($35)

To be styled with: This unique casual coat will look great paired with a washed oxford shirt, cardigan sweater, distressed jeans, and the Bean Boots I just wrote about.



The "little-more-out-there" stylist: Knowing me and the way I put things together, I might even wear this with a white club-collar oxford cloth shirt, a gray wool bow tie, slim dark jeans slightly rolled and broken-in burnished brogues. And something about this jacket goes perfect with my tan/brown Filson duffle.



Levi "Trucker" Jacket (I cut the sleeves off to wear it as a vest) ($30):






To be styled with: Throw it over the season's most popular shirt, the plaid flannel, and finish it off with a pair of slim chinos or cords and some brown suede chukka boots or classic sneakers like Chuck Ts


The "little-more-out-there" stylist: Use it as a layering piece under a chunky shawl collar cardigan or even a lightweight peacoat. And don't be afraid to wear it with jeans (preferably of a darker wash).



Wool Cowichan Sweater (with "square dance" on back!) $35

It's almost boot season, a stylish guy's favorite time of year.



I'm a big fan of the classic "Bean Boots" (colloquially called "Duckie Boots") by L.L. Bean:

I wore 'em with a suit the other day, and when people smiled at me, I just smiled back :)  As a safer option, though, wear them casually. Example:






Public Service Announcement:



No, I am not being paid by LL. Bean. Everything on my blog is legit and not "clouded" by contracts or ad deals. Even though advertisers are starting to show interest, I want my readers to know that I am not going to "sell-out" and push products that I don't personally wear or authentically stand by.



Yours in style,

SB

Reader:



Hey Dan,

So I saw this latest post on The Sartorialist with Lino in a pair of double monk strap shoes:

I
happened to find a nice pair by Allen Edmonds (link below), but what do
you personally think of these shoes? (where should they be worn, color,
etc.):






 PS: What are you thoughts on Allen Edmonds?

Thanks, man, hope all is well. (From a SEAS '08 alum)




SB:



Hey, thanks for the Columbia love!



I love double monkstrap shoes, they are certainly head-turners (especially when done with such Italian panache). However, I find it difficult to find a pair that has a sleek design and a nicely shaped toe, many look boxy and more "old school academic" than "bad ass stylish motherf-er" (as I like mine to look, hah). I'd say these Alan Edmonds fall in the first category more than the second.



Allan Edmonds is one of only two brands still making shoes in the US (the other being Alden), and their history is strongly woven into the national landscape since they provided shoes for the Army and Navy during WWII. They are excellently crafted shoes that will certainly outwear many other brands. With that said, though, there is something about their design that always struck me as suitable for older gentlemen who are not trying to make too much of a style statement.



Since you graduated in '08, my suggestion would be to find something slighlty more sleek. I would start with the Italian fashion houses. Take a look at the two pairs below by Prada and Gucci, respectively. It's kind of hard to explain, but see how their shape just looks more "style-aggressive" (the soles are not as bulky, the toes are sharply rounded, the monk straps are slimmer and slightly angled). These small details might not seem like a big deal, but it makes all the difference.





The price will be comparable to slightly more expensive than the A Edmonds, but remember the golden rule of buying footwear. Not to mention, if you get the right pair, you can wear them dressy, wear them casually...wear them as much as you f-ing want.






Thanks for reading,

SB

I had some business cards made the other day, and they came out great!

I will be handing one of these to each of the stylish gentleman that I photograph for the new "Street Style" feature of the blog. It's a reminder to those featured to check out the site, see how their picture came out and read my caption about why I love their style.



I will be out-and-about shooting on the streets of NYC this afternoon, so check back in later to see what I found! (and perhaps you and I will even cross paths...)



Yours in style,

SB

We get it. You went to Hermes, or Ferragamo, or Dolce & Gabanna and spent $300+ on a new belt, and you want everyone to know. The irony is, there is nothing that makes a man look more corny (and borderline insecure) than a "I paid alot for this!" belt buckle. Not only does it take attention away from your outfit, but it pretty much screams "fashion victim".

Instead fellas, go with something slim, classic and subtle, like this alligator skin piece by Martin Dingman for dressy occasions:






Or this rough and rugged bridle leather strap by John Varvatos for more casual times:

Although the dominant theme will always be clothing-based, the subject of this blog is style, not fashion. There is a big difference. So once in a while I will feature things that I find stylish and inspiring, like this short film by Spike Jonze featuring Kanye West. This was originally supposed to be the music video for "See you in my nightmares", but this is the kind of thing that happens when two creative geniuses collaborate.



If you haven't noticed, I am a huge Kanye West fan. Yes, I know he has issues, but who doesn't? One of my favorite designers, Michael Bastian, nailed it when he said, "Kanye West does his own thing. What I love the most about his style is that he
wears every designer in the world, but you don’t see the designer—you
just see him.". With projects like the one below, he proves that he will continue to do "his own thing", and you or I will never be able to predict his next creative move.







The video may not be loading due to copyright issues. If so, try to check it out here.

Reader:



Hi Dan,



I must congratulate you on your blog. It's been a great inspiration to many including myself. Like myself, I know you like to interchange formal and casual items. I have
recently read your tip of the day on watches, despite it being posted
short of 3 months ago, but it left me partially questioning myself. I'm
a big fan of large watches and I've been seeking one for
quite some time.



My question… I rarely see unconventional oversized (51mm) watches
paired with a suit, they tend to be smaller, classier, and a bit more
discreet. Will the white oversized one look odd and/or
out-of-proportion?

SB:



Hey, thanks for reading!



51mm! That's not a watch, that's a wall clock with a wristband! Unless you're Shaq Diesel at 7'2" / 350 lbs, I think it'll look a little funny with a suit. Your shirt cuff*, and maybe even your suit sleeve, will likely not fit over it's gigantic case, causing it to distract from your outfit rather than add to it.



I am a big fan of that Nixon piece, and love the idea of a white ceramic watch as a way to break up a "dressy" outfit, but I'd stay in the 35-41mm range (which is still considered L - XL). Don't go with the super-played-out white G-Shock...I'm pretty sure Nixon makes some smaller sizes. Although if it were me, I would save the $2,400 to invest in a more suit-appropriate classic
that I can grow old with and pass down to my children like the Cartier Tank Solo or the IWC Portuguese, and find another way to dress down my suits. But hey, it's your money.



Yours in style,

SB



*for those who invest in custom clothing: did you know you can get your left (or right if you're a lefty) sleeve cuff adjusted to fit properly over your watch? Just ask your tailor!

Reader:

Thanks a million in advance!



SB:



Of course! Many men are uncomfortable with authentic socklessness, and opt for faking it with "no show" or "loafer" socks; extra low cut socks that sit lower than the top of your shoes. Get them in black or brown (or whatever color to match your shoes in case they play peek-a-boo). You can pick up these from Banana Republic, 2 pairs for $14.99.



Thanks for reading, SB

If you are a regular reader of my blog you may have noticed these recent changes:



New Name

The address is now: www.thestyleblogger.com (much easier to remember than the pesky www.mensstyleblog.blogspot.com, although you can still access it from there).



More user friendly

I've categorized all the posts so that they are easier to navigate.



Subscribe!

It's now super easy to subscribe to the blog, so that as soon as I click "publish post" you will be notified of the new content.


Real-time "tweets"

My twitter account is now linked to my blog so you can stay up-to-date with my latest style-tipping-tweets.



Ad Space

Call me a sell-out but I like making money as much as the next guy, so expect to see ads on the sidebar of the blog. There is plenty of room if your business is interested...



Mobile Posting

I finally successfully linked my blog to my blackberry, so expect posts more often and from anywhere on the streets of nyc and beyond.



Also, Coming Soon: 

- Street Style photos

- Video Posts


Now that I've cleaned up my act a little, I think it's safe for you to run and tell all your friends about the blog. Spread the word! :)



Yours in style,

SB

It's about that time. Break out the wool socks like my man BL!



Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Reader:

 


Hey Dan! I absolutely LOVE the blog (and I'm a woman!). Kinda wish you would include more pictures of yourself...I'm sure I'm not the only one curious as to what the "best dressed real man in America" is wearing =) Just a thought. Anyway, my question is about stylish/appropriate gym attire. My bf is never sure what to wear to workout and usually goes in his old frumpy college t-shirt. Any suggestions?



SB:



Hey! Thanks for reading. It's actually surprising how many messages I get from women who read my blog, so don't feel alone :) I'm glad you asked the gym attire question, its a popular one, and one that hits close to home. When I was an athlete in high school and college I literally lifted weights in rags and in a gym that (purposely) resembled a dungeon. It was all about toughness, grittiness and grunting. But now that I'm a grown man, no longer an athlete, and inevitably held to a standard after winning the said award, I've had to restructure my workout wardrobe.



First and foremost your gym attire needs to be functional. It should be comfortable, allow you to do full range of motion, and not get in the way of whatever exercise you are doing. Secondly, it is important, as when getting dressed for any occasion, to know and understand your body. If you sweat excessively wear darker colors to hide your wet patches and avoid leaving shiny streaks on the weight machines by keeping the cut-off shirts at home. Thirdly, keep in mind the movements you'll be making and dress accordingly; nobody wants to see a man's hairy lower back or sweaty upper thighs. Oh, and fourthly, no "wife-beater" tank-tops - no matter how "jacked" you are.



I usually wear workout specific "dry fit" polyester shirts because they contour the body without being sprinter-tight and they have "cooling" technology which (allegedly) breathes better than cotton and pushes sweat to the surface to ease evaporation and keep you dry and cool. With that I usually wear basketball shorts and running shoes with ankle socks, and an ipod clipped to the front of my shorts with the headphone wire running inside my shirt to keep it out of the way.



Hope this helps! -SB

And never forget:

Per some of your requests, I will host my own "Ten Essentials", a popular feature seen on what used to be men.style.com (r.i.p.) where designers, celebrities, and other fashion-forward individuals list the "10 things they can't go without". So here's my crack at it...

1. Blackberry 8900

With my blackberry in hand not only can I check my email and surf the web, but I can keep in touch with friends in Canada for free, take and send street-style pictures, and blog remotely.

2. Montblanc Timewalker

I wear this watch everyday. It's case is the perfect size to go from dressy to casual (with a quick band change) and I love the neutral no-frills face. It also has sentimental value to me; at 19 years old it was the first time my self-contained business allowed me to spend over $1000 on something (yes, I've been buying my own clothes since the beginning of highschool)

3. Vintage Levis Denim Jacket

This is the perfect lightweight jacket. I wear it with everything from a t-shirt and chuck taylors to a dress shirt and bow tie. The best part, it gets better with time and only cost me $35 at a vintage clothing store.

4. Unlimited NYC Metro Card

I ride the subway. Everywhere. In NYC public transportation is often faster than cabbing-it and you are sure to come across some unique people and great street style on the train. Call me green (and economical).

5. Red Tod's Car Shoes

I love footwear, especially the in-your-face "my kicks are fresh" type of footwear (maybe it's from my roots as a basketball player/hip-hop fanatic). Nevertheless, these are one of my favorite pairs, and whenever I wear them women literally stop me in the street to compliment them, so they pad the ego as much as the outfit :)

6. APC New Standard Jeans

I've written about these in the past. The best all-purpose jeans that money can buy. Need I say more?

7. Basketball

If it wasn't for the game of basketball I probably wouldn't have gone to college, I wouldn't live in NYC, and I certainly wouldn't be writing this blog. The game has been the single most important influence in my life, and to this day I try to play 3-4 times a week to stay in shape and satisfy my passion for the game.

8. Filson Duffle Bag

The perfect bag. Utilitarian enough to look rugged and "manly" and clean enough in design to be carried with any outfit including my finest suit. Whether I'm heading to the gym or traveling for the weekend, I just "throw it in the bag".

9. Michael Andrews Bespoke

Every stylish man needs a good tailor. For me it is certainly an "essential". I take all my alterations and custom clothing orders to the experts at MAB.

10. Persol 649

Shades are my favorite accessory, and I usually go with these tortoiseshell frames made popular by Steve McQueen to complete my look.

Yours in style, SB.