Sunday, November 29, 2009
Reader:
Ok here is a quick and easy one. Denim shirt. Should I? How should I pull it off?
Been looking at this one (below) from Banana Republic.
Thinking I would get it, wash it a few times to give it a more worn-in
look and wear it with dark unwashed jeans with a nice slim straight
cut. Thoughts?
SB:
Absolutely!
I love denim shirts. I'm actually wearing one right now (a really beat-in version from RRL). I love the look. Styling can be a bit tricky though, but considering you are planning to lose your denim-shirt-virginity with jeans on, I'm assuming you know a thing or two about tricky styling. Just remember to keep the washes different, you don't want to end up looking like Jay Leno.
As a "safer" alternative, wear it with slim khakis, brown corduroys, or light gray jeans. Also, try to get a cut that is short enough that you can wear untucked, or nonchalantly half-tucked. And remember, you don't need to pair it with anything "in your face" or any loud accessories, the shirt already makes a statement.
Thanks for reading.
Yours in style,
SB
Labels: Casual Shirts, Denim, Dress Shirts, Reader Questions
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
To all my readers, my apologies for being away for so long. And thanks so much to all those who sent me messages concerning my well being. Yes, I am still here and doing well! Truth is, I got a new job and have been adjusting to a new schedule. But I'm back off hiatus and full of new material! Will start writing tomorrow... Happy Thanksgiving!!
Yours in style, SB.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Reader:
Due to my build I find that flat front pants are more
flattering. Since you typically only see cuffs on pleated pants, I’m at
the point of buying my flat front pants longer and having the tailor create the
cuffs. Is this a fashion faux pas?
Thanks!
SB:
Hey. Thanks for reading.
Not at all! I do it all
the time. In fact, I only wear flat front pants, and most of my heavier
weight pants have cuffs. For a cooler look, try a wider 2 - 2 1/4" cuff, and
keep the pants short with little to no break.
Yours in style,
SB
Labels: Pants, Reader Questions, Tailoring
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Today's tip is simple.
When wearing a cardigan sweater, leave the top and bottom buttons undone.
Before:
Wearing the sweater all-buttoned-up creates an uptight looking high stance and a boxy straight bottom. Looks very mannequin-esk.
After:
Photo by GQ
Leaving the top button undone creates a deeper "V" stance which makes you look longer, leaner, and taller. Leaving the bottom button undone breaks up the boring straight-across line at the waist, and adds a sort of "sprezzatura" - Italian for stylish non-chalance.
Thanks for reading.
Yours in style,
SB
Labels: Sweaters, Tip-of-the-Day
Sunday, November 8, 2009
So this is going to sound funny (no pun intended). You've probably never been advised to dress like a cartoon...but watching your favorite animated program can be a lesson in proper-fitting clothing! Don't ask me where I get this stuff...but most cartoon characters have perfectly fitting clothing (I know, because they don't have bodies).
The lesson here is that your clothing should follow the natural lines of your body. Your shoulder seams should hit at your shoulder (not hang off), your inseam should cover your leg (not too short showing your socks, and not too long bunching up at your shoes), your sleeves should hit straight down at your wrist (not bunch-up or hang into your hands), your collar should fit your neck (not hang off), etc.
Even Homer has a great tailor.
Yours in style,
SB
Labels: Style Icons, Tailoring, Tip-of-the-Day
Reader:
Hey Style Blogger,
Over time
I've been able to find shirts that fit well, but have difficulty when it comes to pants. I've purchased a number of pants from brands like Banana Republic, but when I wear
them under a fitted shirt/blazer they
appear heavy/blocky. So getting that sleeker (not skinny pant) look
is difficult. What brand/type of pants should I buy (that won't need to be chopped up at the tailor). I am willing to taper to 7" but want to
know if there is more to it. I am seriously considering having my mom
teach me how to sew.
SB:
I know exactly what you mean. Since there are so many factors that go into their fit (waist size, seat allowance, thigh width, calf width, inseam length, ankle width, posture, how you walk, how the fabric drapes, etc.) it is very difficult to find a pair of pants that fit properly.
I struggled for years trying to find the perfect fit, including countless visits to the seamstress (some good, some not so good). The last straw was when I had to throw out some pants because they were so chopped-up that they looked like a home-ec project.
Then I went custom, and never looked back. Not only can you get the exact fit you are looking for, but you can also choose from hundreds of fabrics and customize all the details to your preference. It may be slightly more expensive, but I would much rather have 2 pairs of perfect-fitting pants (probably dark navy and medium gray to start) than 4 pairs of ill-fitting pants. Besides, if they fit properly, they will last much longer since there is less strain on them from everyday movement.
If you are in NYC, or plan on visiting anytime soon, check out my guys at MAB. You will love them.
Hope this helps,
SB
Labels: Pants, Reader Questions, Tailoring
Reader:
Hey Dan,
What are your thoughts on grey jeans? This seems like a decent
way of changing up my jean cycle. Thanks
SB:
TWO THUMBS WAY UP!
Just like indigo wash selvedge, keep them slim (not skinny) and straight through the leg. Also, keep the back pockets blank (or simple) and wear them at your waist.
Thanks for reading,
-SB
Labels: Jeans, Pants, Reader Questions
Saturday, November 7, 2009
I often get questions about quality and price differences in footwear. Here is a great breakdown by Parson's shoe design professor Howard Davis. Interesting...
-SB
Labels: Shoes
Now that cold weather is officially upon us, it's time to break out the heavier fabrics. I love this time of year because I have some kind of fettish for heavy oxford cloths, wool flannels, tweeds, and cashmeres. In fact, I like these thicker fabrics so much, I try to wear them head to toe in cold weather, including in my breast pocket.
I was looking to change up my basic white linen/cotton pocket square that I wear so often for something heavier, and more colorful, but couldn't find anything I liked, and didn't really want to pay $75 for a fricking handkerchief. So, here's my secret...
Go to a thrift or goodwill store:
Pick up a plaid flannel shirt for about $4:
Cut a square 16" x 16" out of the back of the shirt:
Fold the square like this:
TA-DA! You have a brand new, one-of-a-kind, winter-ized pocket square, for $4!
The great thing about this is, not only do you save $$ and get a truly unique accessory, but you also have a selection of hundreds, maybe thousands of fabrics to choose from.
Yours in style,
SB
Labels: Accessories, Pocket Squares, Tip-of-the-Day
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Reader:
I have had a problem of wearing
through the soles of shoes quickly and it is really frustrating. I had
a pair of black hugo boss shoes that only lasted 6 months before i put
a hole through the sole. I also own a pair of Teran shoes (a brand from
buenos aires) and they are beautiful shoes but I have the same problem.
The only pair that seems to hold up are my Ferragamos, but they were
$300 and I would rather not spend that much if I dont have to. Please recommend some good shoes for me.
SB:
Wow, sounds like you are pretty rough on your shoes! I
would recommend rubber soled shoes, with thicker bottoms, rather than
slim leather soled shoes (a la Hugo Boss shoes). Rubber soles do not wear down
as easily, and as an added bonus they are usually more comfortable for
walking.
Thicker Rubber Sole:
Shoes by J. Crew
However, if you are like me and would rather wear slimmer, sleeker, leather soled shoes, as a second option I would recommend buying a quality (preferably hand-made) leather soled shoe. Although it will cost you a little more (like your Ferragamo's) the uppers will virtually last you a lifetime, and when the soles wear down, you can take them to your local shoe repair guy to have them re-soled at a fraction of the price of a new pair.
Thinner Leather Sole:
Shoes by Paul Smith
In
addition, consider getting protective "taps" (plastic, not metal tap-dancing "clickers") on the toes and heels of your
shoes. You can get this done for about $5 and it can dramatically delay the death of your shoes (assuming the toes and heels are taking the brunt of the damage...which for most guys is the case)
Another piece of advice is to have a few pairs in your rotation. Wearing the same pair everyday is asking for them to get beat-up in a hurry. Lastly, perhaps try not to drag your feet. More friction against the sidewalk = more wear to your bottoms.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for reading,
SB
Labels: Maintenance, Reader Questions, Shoes
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Most guys have a navy blue blazer (if you don't, you should get one). It certainly is, and has been for a very long time, a staple to the everyman's wardrobe.
The problem is, you wear it all the time and you are getting tired of it, but you also don't want to get a new one because you can't justify spending money for something you already have. Here is a simple and cost effective solution to refreshen your blue blazer: change the buttons!
Take your blazer to your tailor and tell him/her that you want new buttons put on it (or if you're crafty, you can sew them on yourself, like I did yesterday). Assuming the buttons are currently black, you can change them to something classic (but a little bolder) like light brown marble, gold, or silver. Or you can throw caution to the wind and go with something a little more in-your-face like a guy I met the other night who had red plastic buttons on his jacket (which looked so cool...I'm peeved I forgot my camera).
So go ahead, click the refresh button.
Yours in style,
SB
Labels: Suits, Tailoring, Tip-of-the-Day
Reader:
Hey SB,
I’m really into this slim tie thing, but
I’m 6’2, and whenever I try to make a knot, no matter if it is a
four-in-hand or a Windsor knot, whatever I get is a really tiny knot. As a
result, people stare at the knot itself (or the near non-existence of it) not
the tie. I know a small collar may help, but, do you have any specific technique
to make a good knot in a skinny tie?
Thanks.
SB:
Hey, great question! I know exactly what you are talking about, and it can be frustrating.
Yes, a smaller collar would help balance out your smaller knot (and would look very "of the moment"), although I am not a big fan of the tiny collar thing that has taken over in high-fashion. The trick is to use a higher quality, thicker (not wider, but more "gerthy") tie made of multi-ply silk. Regardless of the width of the tie, this will help give your knot some heft. If you are not up for getting all new ties, try knotting your tie further down its body, making it longer so that you don't have to pull it so tight (the looser you tie it, the bigger your knot will be).
Short of that, I wouldn't go too crazy trying to reinvent your skinny tie wardrobe...my prediction is it won't be very long before all the super-skinny stuff is "soooo yesterday".
Hope this helps.
Thanks for reading,
SB
Labels: Reader Questions, Ties











