Men Style

Is it just me, or are women dressing more and more like men, and men dressing more and more like women?

Let's play a little game. Below are six pictures numbered 1,2,3,4,5 and 6. Take a guess as to the gender of the person behind the outfit in each picture. Post your answers in the "comments" section of this post.

We'll see if it's just me...

Thanks for reading, Style Blogger

(photos via http://www.thesartorialist.blogspot.com/)

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I am often asked if it is possible for a man to pull-off sneakers (we're talking collectibles, like retro Jordans or limited edition Nike Dunks, for example) and look stylish - and not childish. The answer is yes, although it can be tricky.

While I rarely wear sneaks myself anymore, I used to have an extensive collection - from limited edition Air Force Ones to every Jordan from I to XX. So needless to say, I still have a certain fondness and nostalgia for a nice pair of kicks, especially if they are rare (after all, I'm all about being unique and original). Luckily, two of my long-time friends have perfected the art of grown-man-kickery.

The best way to do it, in my opinion, is to let the kicks do all the talking. That is, if your kicks are loud, don't put them in a shouting match with the rest of your outfit. Tame your outfit down, keep it simple, neutral, and (of course) well fitted. A simple, neutral-colored button-up or polo with khakis or plain jeans will have you looking like a grown man while also leaving a blank canvas for your kicks to jump off of.

Most men try to experiment with a dash of loud color in their outfits at some point or another (usually ties or pocket squares), this is just another (more casual) way to do it. Some minimal matching can slide, but the last thing you want to do is wear a bright pair of sneakers with a matching outfit (t shirt, hat, etc)...nobody will take you seriously, especially women.

Notice the picture below...if you look at it and put your hand over their feet to cover their shoes, they look like normal (although good looking and Italian) average Joes, just like everyone else. Go ahead, try it! Once you removed your hand, however, and look at their entire outfit, you start to get the sense that these two cats are unique, creative, original, cool, etc... They let their kicks do the talking...because their kicks have alot to say.

Stay original. Yours in style, Style Blogger.

In order for a man to look his best, grooming (fresh hair cut, clean facial hair, etc) is essential.

The other day I was reunited with a group of old friends, and I was reminded of how unique my circle of friends really was. Many of the guys I grew up with did not necessarily have an interest in "fashion", but were always stylish and original. One friend in particular has incredible attention-to-detail when it comes to grooming. Check out my man in the picture below...while it may be a little extreme for some, the detail in the faded beard is inspiring.

A favorite quote of mine seems appropriate here: "the greatest limit on our creativity is the limit of our imagination".

Keep being unique and expressing yourself...trying too hard to "fit in" with everybody else causes you to lose your identity as an individual. I know, I know, this is becoming a little too deep for facial hair...but I love meeting people who are not afraid to be original.

Yours in Style, Style Blogger.

Some men's suits - especially cheap ones - come with a tag on the outside of the sleeve cuff with the name of the brand. This tag is meant to be removed...do not leave this tag on!

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Two things that can make every outfit look exceptionally better are....

1. A clean, short haircut (especially since the weather is heating up)

2. Get in shape. Losing some weight and toning your chest and arms will not only make you feel and look better, but you can slim your clothing down and layer more easily without looking all puffed up.

*Bonus: Posture. Standing up straight will instantly make you look more confident, more fit, and let your clothes fall smoother over your body. Not to mention it is healthier for your skeleton.

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Again, sorry to my readers for my slacking lately...life has been crazy (i know, i know, no excuses).

While I was on hiatus, I've been thinking of new features for the blog. Apart from taking my first pictures for my "Street Style Spotted" feature where I take pictures of stylish men I come across on the street, I'm also introducing a new feature called "Move On" where I will highlight fads/trends/popular looks that we all need to put away and move on from.

The subject of this first "Move On" feature is plaid shorts. It seems for the past two summers men have been wearing plaid shorts on every occasion possible. Let me be the first to say it: lets retire the plaid shorts (this includes small and big "checks" as well as madras).

It was cool when it first started and only the "cool" stylish guys were doing it...but now every man, their father, and their grandfather has at least one pair. It is no longer unique...and when it is no longer unique (especially when it is a look that is meant to "stick out") it is game over.

Thanks for keeping up, even when I've been slacking. I'm back on a more regular schedule, so keep coming back for your daily sartorial fix.

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

A stylish man's clothes should not have symbols on them. No Ponies, No Alligators, No "D&G"s, nothing. Just clothes that fit properly and are put together in a unique and creative (and reasonable) way.

A button-up shirt, whether it be a spread collar "tie-shirt" or a laid back button-down-collar oxford, looks goofy when it has a symbol - especially when worn with a tie. Symbols take away from your look, they do not add to it. The attention is inevitably taken away from your outfit, however unique or stylish, and is put on the commonality of the brand you are accidentally showing-off.

You want people to say "he always dresses well...I wonder where he shops", rather than "oh, he's just wearing another same-old insert-brand-here shirt". You already paid for the shirt, you didn't sign a contract to advertise for the company too.

Come to think of it, most high-end designers don't even put symbols on their clothing. Instead, they let the clothing speak for itself...and let you speak with them by putting them together in creative and unique ways.

While I think a blank chest is better in any occasion, the only piece of clothing that is symbol-acceptable is a polo shirt - which may or may not be due to a lack of a really good clean-chested polo brand. Nevertheless, men have a large selection of summer chest ornaments to choose from - from Brooks Brothers' suspended sheep, to Ralph Lauren's little horse-riding-polo-player, to John Varvatos' two-finger piece sing, to Hickie's cannabis plant...just to name of few.

Interestingly, each symbol has its own unique "image" that subconsciously "says something" about you when people see it on your chest...(post coming soon on logo symbolism).

Thanks for reading. Keep it clean chested, Style Blogger.

Quick tip before I run out the door...

The weather is getting nicer by the day (in NYC anyway), which means more and more people are wearing sunglasses - one of my favorite accessories.

Keep in mind, however, that sunglasses should only be worn in the sun. Which means, if you enter a building you should remove them as pass through the doorway. Also if you are speaking with someone, even if you are outside, removing your shades is the polite thing to do (as is looking a person in the eyes when speaking to them).

Lastly, if you are one of those guys who wears sunglasses at night...I don't know how to help you.

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

To all my readers,

I'm sorry that I have not posted in the past few days...life has been crazy. As always, however, I have been seeing post-worthy inspiration everywhere lately, and have jotted down pages of notes.

Multiple posts coming in the next day or two.

Thanks again for reading. And special thanks to those who messaged me with concerns, I really appreciate the support.

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

There is a certain nonchalance and comfort level necessary in order for a man to look his best. You should act comfortable in your clothing, and not worry if your tie is not perfectly straight, or your shirt is not perfectly tucked. A confident man gets dressed once - before he leaves - and doesn't fret about constantly fixing his look.

Some men (and I can think of one of my friends in particular), especially when "dress up", constantly pull at their clothes and try to fix the natural imperfections of their look (shirt coming slightly untucked, tie flailing with movement, hair a little "messed up", etc). This makes a man look insecure and overly concerned with his appearance.

The "best dressed" men are usually those who are most confident. I love seeing a guy in a slim tailored suit running or doing something active...after all, those are just his clothes, they don't stop him from living his life. Wear a suit like you wear a t-shirt...don't worry about your clothes...they're just clothes...act natural.

This is one of the appeals of Ari Gold from Entourage - he is always well dressed, but above that, he is confident in his look - often running, rushing, and doing big arm gestures, etc. The imperfections add to his appeal.

If you looked good when you left the house, you still look good. If you must, you can check yourself out in the mirror when you go to the bathroom and make sure you are still in order...other than that, go out and act natural.

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Young people are wanting to wear suits more and more. Men are wearing suits to "business casual" events, out to night clubs, and even with sneakers and t-shirts on their own time.

90's businesses across the board, lead by Google and the other "techies", adopted a (very) casual dress code where suits were no longer necessary. In my opinion, this overly casual movement created an old-world nostalgia for the days when guys dressed like men and wore suits, and took care of business while "dressed for success".

In combination with that, some of the coolest cats in the media (from athletes, to actors, to musicians) are rocking suits on a regular basis...and we all know the fashion pull that celebrities have.

Here are some of the top players who are making suits cool again:

Justin Timberlake

Kanye West

Jay-Z

Ari Gold

Mad Men

The Cast of the Ocean's Movies

David Beckham

P. Diddy

Remember the days when hip-hop artists dressed like this:

(If you are under the age of 15...Yes, that is P. Diddy, back when he was Puff Daddy)

I'd say it's been an improvement.

Love wearing jeans, but hate wearing the same dark pair over and over? Invest in some white jeans!

The misconception is that they are too hipster, but (unless they are super-slim) they are actually classic and versatile enough to wear with anything from a bright colored polo in the Summer to a suit jacket and tie in the Fall/Winter/Spring. (Yes, I don't follow the ridiculous "Labor Day" restriction).

They are a blank canvas so you can wear them with basically anything, which makes putting on outfit together easy...and instantly stylish. Just keep them white, not beige or mother of pearl...and keep them solid white, no contrast stitching or loud pocket details.

Don't spill the red wine. Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Reader:

Hey Style Blogger,

Spring is here and weather is getter hotter which really limits the items in my wardrobe. I have a ton of polos and long sleeve button downs that I wear in warmer temps and I mix them with jeans, cords, and chinos, but after a while that just gets boring. I don't like the look of short-sleeve button downs because the sleeves are alway so baggy. I was thinking of getting a linen sportcoat to mix it up a bit. What are your thoughts on this or any other ways to break the summer shirt cycle?

Style Blogger:

That damn summer shirt cycle! So boring, I know...there is certainly a lack of options for men in the summer...but that just means we need to be more creative. As Saul Steinberg once said, "The life of the creative man is lead, directed and controlled by boredom".

The trick to being able to switch up your summer looks is not having a polo shirt in 45 different colors, but rather mixing different lightweight elements together. You can still layer in the summer, you just need to stock up on lightweight materials (linens, cottons) and unlined jackets.

A linen sport coat is a good idea...especially if you wear it with shorts (see post "Stand Out", Tuesday May 5th). I also love linen suits, especially slim ones with sockless loafers (or go hipster with boat-shoes) and an open shirt. You could also invest in some linen knitwear, like a cardigan. I love a cardigan over an open collar washed dressed shirt with a pair of shorts.

You don't need to stay away from short-sleeved "dress" shirts, they are a great look, you just need to find the right fit. Try Theory for great slim fit short-sleeved button downs that are slim through the arm. As an alternative, too, you could roll up your sleeves on your lightweight dress shirts. For the perfect summer weight casual dress shirt, try Steven Alan.

Lastly, to make up for the lesser number of options, use accessories to make your look more interesting. Slip on a pair of stylish sunglasses, a nice grosgrain ribbon watch, and/or a lightweight straw fedora or trilby hat, ala Brad Pitt.

Cheers to not giving in to the everyday polo that dominates the summer.

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

No.

Reader:

Hey man!

I've just gotta let it be said: you have a great blog and impeccable style. I caught your profile on Esquire's Best-Dressed Real Man (back when I was competing myself) and found my way to your blog- and have since bookmarked and checked it pretty regularly. Just thought I'd let you know. Terrific style, man, really impressive.

Small question: Living in the south (Texas to be precise) in a bigger city we run into some fashion faux-pas regarding suits- not everyone wheres them to borderline formal events, instead wearing jeans and a button-down- sometimes a blazer. (no cowboy hats and boots, though, that's just a stereotype) If this is going on anyway, in the summer at least, is it too much to where a suit but, kind of the reverse of the button-down with jeans, where a short-sleeve lacoste polo instead? No tie, no dress shirt, but a polo with a suit?

Thanks and fingers-crossed on you winning the contest

Style Blogger:

Hey, thanks for reading and great question!

Personally, I love the suit & polo look (definitely more than the oh-so-common button down with jeans), but only when it is done correctly, which can be tricky. The trick is to know that the outfit overall is casual, so the rest of the look should follow suit (no pun intended).

- This look looks best when the suit is slim - especially in the shoulder, through the arm and through the leg. The suit also looks better in this case when it has slim lapels...and definitely stay away from peaked lapels. It should also have a deep "V" shape, which is most easily achieved with a 2 or 1 button suit.

- If you have a lightweight cotton suit (preferably unlined or half-lined), it would work best because of its casual and "summery" nature

- The polo should be a solid color, and the color should bounce off the suit, not clash (for example, don't wear a royal blue polo with a navy blue suit...try crisp white or bright yellow instead...after all, it is summer).

- Leave at least 2 buttons on the polo undone

- Your shoes should be casual. Loafers are great...and if you can pull it off slip on a pair of sneakers for a very chic look (see picture below)

- Leave the dressy leather belt at home...go beltless, or wear a casual one (ribbon or cotton-weaved are great)

- Don't tuck the polo in...and make sure it is the right length (see Tip-of-the-Day, April 25th)

- If you have working cuffs and can roll your sleeves up, this is your chance, do it!

- Lastly, if its sunny, slip on a pair of shades...they're the best accessory to finish off a summer look (see Tip-of-the-Day, April 21st)

Hope this helps brother!

Yours in style, Style Blogger

Winner: Lebron (hands down, no contest)

Runner up: MJ

On the court, it's not so easy...

In one of his songs, Kanye West says, "How am I supposed to stand out when everybody gets dressed up?". Well here's how: where a jacket and tie with shorts.

This is one of my favorite looks. If you have the grapefruits to pull it off, do it! I've only seen one other person (other than myself) do it, and it looked awesome on him! (Wish I had my camera).

The trick is to not be shy about it. Wear a slim tailored blazer, shirt, tie, dress shoes, as usual...just trade the pants in for a pair of shorts (and leave the socks in the drawer, of course). You also need the right pair of shorts. This look doesn't work with cargo shorts or basketball shorts. The shorts should be similar to the khakis or trousers you would wear with the same outfit; slim through the leg, neutral colored, and pressed. They should hit about an inch above the knee.

Confidence mandatory.

There is virtually an unlimited number of options when choosing shirt/tie/pocket-square color combinations. In order to limit the options and make easier decisions, most men "match" the color(s) in their shirt to the color(s) in their tie, and do the same with their pocket square. Light blue striped shirt = light blue pindot tie. Solid pink shirt = pink striped tie. In my opinion, this is amateur dressing...it's the easy way and rarely makes for an interesting outfit. Furthermore, if your tie came with your shirt in a box-set as pictured below, you really need to rethink your wardrobe.

Few men really understand color, but those that do also know that complimentary colors can transform an outfit. Try a dark green tie with a pink striped shirt, or a purple tie with a light gray striped shirt. It's really a process of trial and error. Hold up several different ties to your shirt and see how it looks...soon enough you'll get the hang of it. You don't need to be safe and pick matching colors.

When in doubt, here is a fool proof recipe: light shirt, dark tie. Works everytime.

Yours in style, Style Blogger

Reader:

Hey,

I found your blog through the esquire best dressed men competition. First, I will say I dig your style.

Secondly, you mention custom suits "designed by yours truly." Are you talking about suits that were custom made by a tailor: a la bespoke? Or are you actually designing (drawing the design and patterns etc.) and tailoring the suits yourself?

thanks...and keep dressing sharp

Style Blogger:

Thanks for reading! Did you vote for me? :)

The custom clothing pictured on my profile is all from Michael Andrews Bespoke. I've been to a few custom clothiers in NYC, but MAB is by far the best that I've experienced. Their shop in the Lower East Side is awesome. Michael and his employees are great, very friendly and helpful. Best of all, you can completely customize your clothing and design it from scratch...and, as you can see, their product is awesome (and so is their price point, comparatively).

Check out their website by clicking here: MAB.

Thanks again for reading...and feel free to keep voting (up to 30 times a day!).

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

I love these ads! Makes me want to be this man.

I used this term in a post the other day and called it the "top look in menswear right now"...and I've been receiving questions about it. So let me explain.

In my opinion, there is a spectrum of how men dress. It ranges from those who don't care at all (dirty t-shirts, old running shoes, sweat pants...) to those who try-too-hard (over accessorizing, perfect hair, pressed jeans...). Disheveled Elegance is a term used to describe a man who's style falls somewhere in the middle.

The man clearly put some thought into what he is wearing, but it looks like he just threw it together on his way out the door. There are some imperfections, but it makes his outfit interesting. Most importantly, he is not trying to throw his style in anyone's face, it is natural and comfortable. This look is often easiest to pull off with pieces that are well lived-in and broken in.

Yours in style, Style Blogger

This may seem like common sense to many men, but it is worth saying.

As a general rule, a men's metals should all match in color (watch face, belt buckle, shoe buckle, ring, sunglasses frame, etc). If one is silver, they should all be silver. You can always have another set in gold, but avoid mixing them.

Similarly, a men's leathers should also match in color family. Black with black, brown with brown. This includes watch strap, belt, shoes, briefcase, wallet, etc.

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Reader:

First off I think you have great style and give you the utmost respect for that.

Second... I wanted to know your opinion on what a good casual summer shoe would be. I wear a range of traditional boat shoes, drivers, and I just ordered a pair of white (really off white) Vans authentic canvas sneakers for summer. I hope they will work. Love Chucks and Vans but open to any opinion. What do you think?

Thanks

Style Blogger:

Thanks for reading, and thanks for the support! As far as casual summer shoes...I guess it depends on your level of "casual". For the most casual times, I go with sneakers (vans, chuck t's, jack purcells, common projects...keeping them classic and neutral colored).

For slightly-less-casual occasions I often go with boat shoes - a very popular option for men right now. They have a similar look to loafers, but have an ease about them. Because I like well-made shoes, my favorite boat shoes are these (with black soles) from Rogues Gallery - hand-made in Maine and all leather - they are a little pricey though. I'm not sure about your budget, but here is a similarly made pair by Quoddy Trail at a slightly better price point - they are also all leather, hand-made in USA.

Lastly, the least casual option - but my go-to - is a classic loafer, sockless of course in the summer. I have a collection and I like to switch them up...but there is nothing more classic than the good 'ol Bass Weejun, which is also a great bang for your buck. Not only do they get better with age and last forever, but they are also very versatile and can cross the lines of casualness.

Hope this helps!

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Tiger hit his first hole-in-one when he was 6 years old. Here's another youngster at the top of his game.

Photo by Scott Schuman

I can only hope that one day my son will have this much swagger.

When it comes to buttons on a suit, less is more in my opinion - in fact, my bespoke suits and the ones that I design are mostly one-button. When wearing the more popular three-button style, however, it is important to know how to button it.

The general guideline is "sometimes, always, never". Meaning, sometimes fasten the top button, always fasten the middle button, and never fasten the bottom button.

My personal rule, however, is "never, always, never". Only fasten the middle button. And keep it fastened at all times, unless sitting down. Like Tom Ford (the best menswear designer in the world, in my opinion), I agree that men look better with their jackets closed (more streamlined, more "put together", more tailored, etc).

As an interesting side-note, Mr. Ford has been known to go around buttoning mens jackets at parties, as if he were doing them a favor. After all, most modern high-end suits have a rollover lapel, which basically hides the top button from being seen, and makes it awkward to button. Therefore, just leave that top one alone.

Yours in style, Style Blogger

As usual, I found inspiration (after a few cocktails) by observing others in social situations. (Great party last night, thanks LN). So today's tip is in reference to cocktail party etiquette.

Drinks

When I was a maturing young man I was, like most college kids, strictly a beer-drinker. I consider myself a man now, however, and as one of my favorite mentor's once advised me, "you act like a man, you dress like a man...it's time to start drinking like a man". He summed it up perfectly: "leave the Bud Lights to the kids. Get something brown. In a short glass. Two ice cubes at the most. No straw. No Fruit. No umbrella or other BS. And lastly, don't be that guy who milks his drink so long that the ice is melted before you finish". (AT, 2008).

Hors D'oeuvres

Have dinner before the party, not at the party. Don't be that guy who's stuffing his face with the bruschetta and sushi rolls. If the only woman you are getting to know is the waitress because she knows you are sure to reach for a snack...you need to re-strategize.

Small-Talk

A party, by definition, is supposed to be a fun time. Please do everyone a favor and save the negativity for your therapist, or your punching bag - however you get down. Don't complain to people you just met about your work, or how stressed you are, or how tired you are. Nobody cares. Bragging about how much you've drank or the girls you've been hooking-up with is no better. And lastly, don't bring up sentimental issues or difficult times that you know your co-partiers are going through...saying things like "so I heard you are having a hard time finding a job" is not only rude, it's also a major buzz-kill. Keep in mind, after all, it's a party. (sorry for being harsh, but someone last night irked me)

Thanks for reading gentlemen (and ladies).

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

A $180 pair of shoes will last you twice as long as a $90 pair of shoes, but a $360 pair of shoes will last you a lifetime.



Indeed, I am a huge believer in buying quality over quantity, especially with shoes. You can only wear one pair at a time, so who cares if you have 35 other pairs of cheap shoes sitting in your closet? Here is a great quote from Ivy-Style's interview with Bruce "Almighty" Boyer, a former fashion editor for GQ and Esquire magazines:


"It’s better to have one good pair of shoes than a half dozen cheap ones, because the cheap ones look cheap even when they’re new, but the new ones look good even when they’re old. Quality by definition is the best you can get for your money. If you buy a pair of shoes for $500 and they last you 10 years, that’s $50 per year. If you buy a pair for $100 and they last you six months, which was the more expensive? I think the Old Money WASP guys were just cheap, so they always bought the best".



As a side note, maybe Mr. Boyer could answer this question...why do they make some pairs of shoes that, according to the formula above, could last almost 4 lifetimes? Maybe so that great-grandsons can wear them?



Thanks for reading. Yours in style, Style Blogger