Men Style

Hey all,
The time has come. My new and improved website is officially up and running!

Also, make sure to reset your bookmarks and/or favorites with the correct address.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to transfer my old posts to my new site. However, the old posts will remain available on this site at www.mensstyleblog.blogspot.com.
See you on the other side!
Yours in style,
SB

The 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympics came to an end yesterday, and we (us Canadians) went out with a bang! A great win, for a great nation.

For those of you who watched the game, you probably didn't forget a short interview with a man named Don Cherry. Cherry, an NHL head coach turned tv host whose best known in Canada for his analysis on "Hockey Night in Canada" is quite a unique fellow, eh.


Now I wouldn't go so far as to call him a style icon, but I have to say, we can all learn an important lesson in cojones from Cherry. For the record, I don't necessarily agree with his clothing choices, but I can certainly appreciate his "this is me" attitude.

Cherry is certainly not afraid to be himself and have a unique sense of style, as we can see from his custom-made floral-print double-breasted jackets and collars stiff and upright enough that he could take a nap standing up.




Think of him as the Canadian Craig Sager (although Cherry definitely takes the crown).


Regardless of his crazy costumes, I think the lesson to be learned from this man is important: don't be afraid to be yourself. Don't dress (or act, or strive, for that matter) to "fit in" with those around you. Don't be afraid to take risks because you are afraid of what your friends, or co-workers, or whoever might think. Express yourself and be true to who you are, in the way you dress, and otherwise.

Thanks for reading.
Your in style,
SB

One of my favorite looks is finally hitting the streets in a big way. Recently I've been seeing denim trucker jackets worn as layers under outerwear. I love this look! (and have for some time). Here are some recent examples shot by GQ's new street photographer during NYC fashion week:

SB

So much positive feedback. And I can't stress the importance, and benefit, of simple alterations.




Can jacket sleeves be "opened" (made working)?

Yes. However, this is very tricky work, and only a very good tailor (one who works for a custom clothing shop, for example) will be willing and able to punch holes in a garment. Cost: approx $25-35 per sleeve




Can pleated pants be made flat-front?

Technically, yes, but this involves remaking the entire waistband of the pants, and re-engineering the fit. The results can vary, not to mention it is very expensive. Cost: just get some new pants, it will likely be less expensive and you can ensure the proper fit




Can a shirt be taken-in (made slimmer)?

Absolutely. I've had the body slimmed on dozens of shirts. It's a simple cut and sew. Also, the sleeves can be taken in as well. Cost: $15-30 body, $10-25 sleeves

No. (unless you find some similar fabric to be added at the shoulder...which is ridiculous...so no)



Can shirt sleeves be made shorter?

Yes, by some seamstresses. The sleeve is removed, fabric is cut, and sleeve is re-attached. Cost: $20-35 per sleeve. 

Thanks for reading. 

More to come...

Yours in style,

SB

I've said it time and time again, looking good in your clothing is all about fit! It's much better to have a $250 H&M suit that fits properly then to have a $2500 Armani suit that doesn't. Trust me!

With that said, when shopping for tailored clothing it is important to understand what alterations your tailor (and by tailor, I mean your typical local seamstress) can and cannot do. So here is a brief FAQ of basic tailoring services along with approximate price ranges (based on NYC prices).



Can the shoulders be extended (made larger)?

No.



Can the shoulders be taken-in (made smaller)?

In theory, yes, but this means reconstructing the entire jacket and can be very expensive (in many cases, more expensive than the jacket itself). For this reason, make sure you buy a jacket that fits properly in the shoulders! Cost: not worth it



Can the sleeves be made longer?

In most cases, yes, but only by the amount of fabric that is available on the underside of the sleeve, up to the beginning of the sleeve lining (see pic below). Also keep in mind the if the jacket has working or "surgeon's" buttons, those holes cut in the fabric cannot be covered or moved. A good tailor can, however, add a button hole or two if necessary to balance the extended sleeved (I wear 5 buttons on my sleeves anyway). Cost: $15-30 per sleeve (extra button hole(s) not included)






Can a suit sleeve be shortened?

Yes, but again, if the buttons on the sleeves are functional, then shortening the sleeve can bring the button holes awkwardly close to the end of the sleeve. Handle proportions with care. Cost: $15-30 per sleeve



Can a jacket be let-out (made roomier) in the sides?

More than likely no, because a typical off-the-rack suit comes with very little seam allowance on the sides.



Can a jacket be taken-in (made slimmer) in the sides?

Yes! This one alteration can make a significant improvement in the fit of the jacket. Cost: $25-$60



Can a jacket be made longer?

No.



Can a jacket be made shorter?

In theory, yes a jacket can be "chopped", but this is risky because it can throw off the balance of the pockets as well as the proportion of the button stance. Cost: $80-100+



Can the "roll" at the back of my neck be removed?

Yes, but only by an experienced tailor. Cost: $50-75




Lastly. Is it worth paying $50-100 in alterations for a jacket or suit that wasn't very expensive?

ABSOLUTELY.




More to come...



Yours in style,

SB

I've received many comments and questions regarding my recent post about super-skinny ties, and the correct ratio/sizing. Here is a simple rule that can easily help with your proportions:



Your tie, at it's widest point, should be about the same width as your lapels (or slightly slimmer, but never wider).

This will give you a good balance. And as we all know, life is all about good balance.



Yours in style,

SB

Hey All,



Just a heads-up. I am constantly in the process of cutting down my closet, so from time to time I will be listing some of my beloved clothing/accessories for sale on eBay.



Check in for new items by clicking HERE (or click the new eBay link on the right side of the homepage).

Hope I can pass something on to my readers!



Yours in style,

SB

Reader:



I was recently throwing together an idea for an outfit I had that involves a velvet blazer. When I showed friends and co-workers pictures, they all seemed to like the outfit. However, a couple people said the same thing, "You're too small for velvet." I'm 5'9" with a lean, rower's build. Could you explain why velvet may be a poor choice for me?

SB:



Thanks for reading. I'm really happy you asked this question!



I was just putting together a post with a message that goes something like this: don't let others decide what you wear! You should dress how you want to dress, in a manner that makes you feel good, and to express yourself. If I changed every time somebody commented on my outfit, I would have nothing to wear! With that said, it is also important to understand what works for you, and what simply doesn't (some people are haters, but some people are right when they say you look ridiculous).



Too small for velvet? Nahhh. Never heard of it. Besides, I hate "rules" like that. Keep in mind, though, that velvet does attract attention, so people will be looking. And when people glance, the first thing they'e going to notice is your most obvious physical attribute - body size, and in your case - your height.



It really depends on your level of confidence. Some guys are self conscious about their height or weight, and for those guys I recommend staying away from loud clothing such as bold pinstripes, bright colors and, yes, velvet jackets.



Hope this helps!



Yours in style,

SB

A movement starts. Men start wearing their clothes more fitted, in part due to European influences.  More and more men shop for slim clothing, putting new found effort toward looking stylish. Time passes.



A trend starts. Trendsters get wind of this new "tailored" look and, in what seems like a natural progression, bring it to the next level. Slim turns to skinny, and stylish begins to look a whole lot like corny. A trend dies - some men go down with it.



Seriously, fellas, enough with the super skinny sh-t. In particular, ties.



There is nothing more "trying-too-hard-looking" than a tie that can be mistaken for your little niece's fat sneaker laces. At 1" (2.54 cm) wide, neckwear screams "look at me, I'm really cool!".

Your tie, like your clothing, should be slim, not skinny. The difference can be inches, or fractions of inches, but it is crucial.



When it comes to neckwear, try not to go any slimmer than 2.5" wide (2.75"is my ideal width...for now). Sooner or later tie widths are going to swing the other way, along with lapel widths and jacket lengths.








Yours in style,

SB

A mentor of mine once told me "If you put your suit jacket on the back of a chair and lean back on it, your suit jacket will look as if you put it on the back of a chair and leaned back on it".



I often walk into restaurants or office buildings and see men in collared shirts sitting with their jackets all squashed behind them on their chairs. I never really understood this.

So today's tip is simple.






It is not necessary to remove your jacket if you are sitting at a restaurant, or in an office setting. Usually, I leave mine on all day. A man almost always looks better with his jacket on, and if the fit is right, it shouldn't be uncomfortable. (Also, keep in mind that a well tailored jacket can easily hide a not-so-well-tailored shirt).



However, if you really feel the need to take it off, most places where de-jacketing is appropriate should have a coat rack, coat check, or some kind of closet. So no more walking around in squashed wrinkled jackets.



Thanks for reading.



Yours in style,

SB

Reader:



I am helping a friend pick out a tux for his wedding, and was wondering what suggestions you would have for a tall, portly man looking for something classy but conservative.  Would a vest be better than a cumberbun to give a slimmer appearance?  What about straight tie vs. bow tie?  Shawl lapel vs. peak?  Thanks for the help!




SB:




Great question! If there is ever a time when a man wants to look his best, it's when he is wearing a tuxedo. For a "portly" man, dressing for your body type is all about drawing attention to your "assets" rather than your "liabilities". With that said, I would suggest a two-piece peak lapel tuxedo with a straight tie. 




The peak lapels will draw attention to the shoulders (thus taking attention away from the mid-section). Stay away from the vest, it will make your friend look too "stuffed" and it distorts the perfect black/white ratio that makes a classic tuxedo so sharp. Same goes for cumberbuns; they are outdated and will only draw eyes to the stomach. Also, consider a white cotton or linen pocket square folded straight and just peaking from the breast pocket, again,  to accentuate the chest.




Your friend should wear a long tie rather than a bow tie on his big day because the north-south line will offer a slimming effect. Along that same line (no pun intended) your friend should leave the belt at home and wear black suspenders. This will allow him to "float" his waist, rather than choosing to strap his pants above or below his belly. Also, a belt (like any accessories, lines, or stripes that run east-west) would only draw attention to his width.




Also, keep in mind that fit is even more important if you are a heavy guy. Some big guys think that a "roomy" suit will hide the fact that they are overweight. This is not true. A bad fit makes you look sloppy, not slimmer. Lastly, a clean shave and a fresh haircut can go a looong way to looking more put-together. 

Some other general tuxedo guidelines:













Thanks for reading, and congrats!




Yours in style,

SB

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