Men Style

Reader:

Hello Dan,

How've you been?
Congrats on the Esquire award and on the blog!

My question is: do you think it is acceptable to dress like this [below]
(like Bradley Cooper, on the left, I mean) for a wedding at night? It's now spring time here in Brazil so I thought of maybe giving the style a chance and try something 'lighter' as opposed to a black suit+white shirt+skinny tie combo, which i find really cool, but we know will be every other guy's choice.

Thanks!

SB:

Hey. I'm great! Thanks.

I understand why you'd want to look like Bradley Cooper, but this photograph is from a black tie event (i.e. tuxedo time). A wedding is not time for a tux for those attending as guests. I wouldn't wear black to a wedding either, it's a little too serious (and has a funeral vibe which can kinda send the wrong message). A wedding is a celebration, not time for mourning (regardless of how great you and your friend's bachelor days were).

Since the wedding is at night, you should go with something on the darker side. Alot of guys will be wearing black and navy, so if you want to stand-out from the crowd a little, go with a medium gray or even brown. Since it is spring down there, I would keep the shirt crispy white, leave the tie and socks at home, and throw on your most comfortable dance-friendly lace-ups. Have fun!

For the record, I don't agree with Coopers' going tie-less with a tux, or the black shirt for that matter...when wearing a tux you should be at your best and keep it simple, don't mess with it. Fun fact: the traditional reason why a tux is so "standard" (simple, no frills, black and white) is so that men can blend-in and let their women shine brightly in their dresses. But that's neither here nor there, and subject for a separate post.

Hope this helps! Yours in style, SB

I thought this was a given, but you need to put shoe trees in your leather shoes! All of them. Every time you come home and take them off to pass out on the couch.

Get a decent pair of shoe trees made out of cedar wood. You can pick them up at just about any department or housing store and not only do they add years of life to your shoes by holding their form to avoid creasing, but the cedar wood also absorbs moisture and odor.

So before you head out for the night on the sockless bandwaggon, make sure you ain't bringing the funk to the party.

Go out, and be fresh. -SB

Reader:

My question is about suit pants and the proper length. Some magazines suggest having your pants a little shorter than normal and either going sockless or adding some splashes with some wild socks which I liked both looks. However if i just want some normal looking suit pants where should I get them hemmed to? The askmen.com website suggests half way between the ground and top of the sole of the shoe. I felt this was too long. Please let me know what you think. Thanks

SB:

Hey thanks for reading. Hmmm. "Normal" looking is not my forte (just kidding), I know what you mean. Although it's a cool look, depending on the occasion, the weather, the season, your shoes, etc. sometimes you just don't want your ankles showing.

People have been arguing back and forth about inseam lengths for ages, and everybody has their opinion (along with level of traditionalism). It really comes down to a matter of personal preference. Do what makes you feel comfortable.

As a general guideline I wear my pants slightly (1/2" or so) shorter in the summer. If you are really anal (like me) you can learn to hem your own pants and change the length by the season, but if you are looking for something "normal" that can be worn year round I'd say my new "standard" would hit at about 1/4" - 1/2" past the top of the back of your shoe, and try having them hemmed slightly at an angle so that the front is not breaking too much.

Hope this helps. SB

I get alot of questions from college students regarding dressing well but not feeling over-dressed. The truth is, looking stylish can easily be done very casually.

Recently I was sent a link to a segment on Playboy.com featuring new hip-hop artist Asher Roth called "Asher Roth's Back to Campus Fashion". I thought it would be "appropriate" to share. Some ok looks, but even better eye "candy".

Check it out here...but chances are you won't be concentrating on his fashion. Enjoy.

Yours in style, SB.

After winning the Esquire contest I did a "buy this look" video for Kenneth Cole with Nick Sullivan, Esquire magazine's fashion director.

Check it out HERE.

More to come. Yours in style, SB.

If you're sitting in a crowded subway car and you don't get up to let a pregnant woman sit, please stop reading my blog. Being a gentleman is stylish. Acting like you are the sh-t is not cool. Let's grow up and try walking in someone else's shoes for once.

There are dress shoes, and there are sneakers. The two should not be combined. Very easy tip for today...stay away from any footwear that can be described as a "hybrid" or "cross" between a dress shoe and a sneaker.

Examples to avoid:

Yours in style, SB

Here's a pet peeve of mine...You know when have the perfect shirt tuck-in, all the way around, perfectly placed...then you bend over or reach up for something, and your shirt pulls out at the sides and billows around your waist? Yeah, I hate that.

The fact of the matter is, with your everyday movements your shirt is bound to pull out of your pants and look sloppy around the waist. However, there is a (very clever) solution to avoiding this.

Have your tailor put a small, ribbed rubber strip on your trousers' inner waistband. This "sticky strip" this will keep your shirt from sliding out of your pants.

My boys at Michael Andrews Bespoke include this feature in all of their pants...and trust me, it works great!

No more need to continuously re-tuck that pesky shirt tail.

Yours in style, SB

I am a HUGE Michael Jackson fan.

I just finally found the time to watch the MTV Video Music Awards, and loved the MJ tribute. Madonna's speech was great, especially this line: "there is no question Michael Jackson was one of the greatest talents the world has ever known". The best part of the tribute was that although the imitation dancers did a tremendous job, if you watch the video screen behind them of Michael himself dancing, you can clearly see why he was so special. Nobody can compare.

Before you focus on the tainted view of Michaels life defined by the issues and accusations in his later years, consider this as proof that he was the man. A relative of mine once attended an MJ concert in the early 90's. The show was sold out and he put on an incredible performance. So incredible that the show had to be stopped six times because women were fainting and needed to be carried out of the arena. Six times (in two hours)! When have you ever had that effect on a woman?

Not only did Michael (damn I hate writing in past tense) make legendary hit after legendary hit, but he was also a true style icon, and since I was away when Michael passed, I never really had the chance to write a worthy post on his unique and inspiring style.

Don't get me wrong, I am not saying that wearing a sparkling studded glove to the office tomorrow morning is a good idea, but Michael's style can be used as inspiration to dress with self-expression and find YOUR own unique look. Just keep in mind that entertainers have a full time "wear whatever I f-ing want" pass (case and point, Lady Gaga, below).

Don't try to be Michael, but don't be afraid to be YOU.

Yours in style, SB.

When wearing a suit with an open collar (no tie, one or two buttons undone) your best bet is to wear a button-down collar shirt so that the collar "sticks up", holds its form, and effectively frames your face.

The button-down collar:

However, most guys who wear ties on a daily basis generally have a collection of point or spread collar shirts (not button-downs) because these typically are easiest to pair with a tie. The problem is, when you remove your tie the collars on these shirts will flatten out and hide under your lapel, losing your collar's clean neckline.

See below...George's collar is "floppy" and doesn't frame his face, while Brad's stands upright which creates a nice clean line making him look more "put together". See the difference:

Therefore, in the past I would recommend that a man have one collection of shirts to wear with ties (typically with point, classic or spread collars) and a separate collection to wear open under a suit jacket (with button-down collars or large stiff-pressed collars).

The good news is, the solution is here...and it only costs $20. Warning...this might make you think "Damn! Why didn't I think of that!?"

They're called "Wurkin Stiffs". They're magnetic collar stays with small (but strong) magnets that hide inside your collar to effectively hold your collar open and up-right, making you look like Brad below (or at least making your collar look like his).

For more information on how these work, or to purchase them online, check 'em out here.

Yours in style, SB.

Reader:

What's up man, 2 questions...

1. I'm feeling the whole tie bar look and just got a pretty sweet one off of amazon.com...The more I rock it, the more I am realizing that I could have gotten a much better one. Mine is a little lengthy and isn't the kind that snaps into place, thus sliding it over the tie is a little annoying. Can you link/recommend any better alternatives that wont break the bank?

2. When you get your suit pants/slacks altered do you have the leg taken in, and if so what width do you ask for, i.e. 8 inches, 9 inches?

SB:

Hey, thanks for reading!

1. There are thousands of tie bars out there, of all lengths and widths. Some have engravings, some are even "bejeweled". My advice is to keep it simple...as simple as possible. Go with a narrow silver tie bar, 2 inches long (ideally you want your bar to reach perfectly across the width of your tie, no shorter, no longer). The one I wear is by Tiffany & Co. It is 100% .925 silver which will last longer than I will, and will not go out of style any sooner. Find it here. J. Crew has a similar one which is a little cheaper. Some guys get it engraved with their last name or something inspirational, but in my opinion this looks tacky. If you feel the need to mark your territory do it on the underside where it is concealed but just as much "yours".

Photo via GQ.com

2. I usually try to buy pants that are already tapered down in the ankle, but if you find a pair that you really like and they are not slim enough through the leg, yes you can have them tapered by your tailor. Just make sure you go to a good tailor because it can be tricky to make the tapper look natural. I wear my pants slimmer than most American men at about 7-7.5" across the hem, I recommend to most guys to go with an 8" ankle to be "safe".

Hope this helps. Yours in style, SB.

Can't believe I forgot my camera tonight! So much style out in NYC right now! Everybody's on their A game! What a night...

While sunglasses are a great accessory to bring a look together, you've heard me say it time and time again; never wear your shades indoors. Use the time as you pass through the doorway of a building to gracefully pull them off your face while you make a smooth James Bond-esque entrance.

What I haven't written about, however, is where to place them once you take them off. Here is my personal swagger "grading scale" on where to keep your sunglasses:

The Tourist/Sports Strap: D-

On top of the head: D

In the shirt collar (can also be done with a collared shirt): C

Folded in the chest pocket (facing out): B

Folded in the chest pocket (facing in with one arm out): B+

Folded in the chest pocket of the suit jacket/blazer (facing in with one arm out): A

In the vintage Filson duffel bag: A+

Yours in style, SB

Reader:

Congratulations on the contest. I was wondering if you ever found it difficult to dress as well as you do to class and on campus, often I find myself feeling somewhat ashamed that I am trying to look my best but my friends and peers sometimes dress like slobs. I am also a student-athlete at my school and a lot of my friends and teammates largely do not care about their attire, which makes me feel largely out of place. Have you ever had any experiences like this? Thanks.

SB:

Hey there. Thanks for reading. It's an interesting question, and I certainly know where you are coming from. College athletes, for a number of understandable reasons (time management issues, early morning workouts, running from the classroom to the gym etc.) often aren't concerned with dressing well. It took me a while to establish the "reputation" for being able to pull off whatever look I wanted without people saying "who the hell is this guy and why is he dressed like that?".

I always thought it was funny that, when getting dressed, so many American men value sameness and sticking out from the crowd is frowned upon. I'm from a different camp. I'd rather stand out from the crowd (in a positive way) then look like just another average Joe.

My advice would be that while you should dress for the occasion (I wouldn't necessarily wear suits to class) you can still look put-togeter and stylish while keeping it more casual and laid back. Check out this awesome slide show from men.style.com which focuses on "collegiate inspired" looks. Although the price points may not be college student friendly, the looks are very inspiring and can point you in the right direction as far as putting together looks that are not too classy for class, but not grungy enough for the gridiron.

And when you're teammates get on you for being "overdressed" (believe me, I've been there) just laugh it off...remember it's always better to be overdressed than underdressed...and don't forget to smile at the girls on campus when you walk by ;)

Hope this helps! Yours in style, DT aka SB

I am absolutely loving the transition of hip-hop music and culture. I've always been a big fan of hip-hop music for its creativity, originality and its "anything is possible" attitude.

Love it or hate it, hip-hop has always been very influential and has always had a strong impact on youth culture, specifically on the way young people dress. So now that rappers are rhyming about Martin Margiela ("ain't nobody fresher, I'm in Maison, uh, Martin Margiela" -Jay-z in "Run This Town") and wearing high-end fashion brands like Tom Ford and Calvin Klein Collection (see picture below), we are seeing more and more people wanting to dress-up and wear clothing that is slimmer, more tailored and more fashion-forward.

Photo via GQ.com

This transition, which is due in large part to the genius and influence of Kanye West, is producing a whole different type of music video, like the one below, which is part short film, part work of art, and part runway show.

Watch the video HERE (it wouldn't allow me to embed it directly onto my blog).

If you're wondering, my favorite look is Common's (the third rapper on the track). Check out those shoes! Those ain't no Air Force One's.

Yours in style, DT aka SB

It's true, there is definitely a movement in men's fashion right now inspiring men to mix casual/sportswear with tailored/formal wear in the same outfit to create an "in-between" look comfortable and appropriate for most occasions. This is not a bad thing, I often do it myself. If pulled off properly, it can be a fresh twist on some of your classic pieces. Example:

photo via GQ.com

This "in-between" look can either be accomplished by adding some formal pieces to a casual look (add a waistcoat or blazer to your usual shirt + jeans look) or adding more casual elements to a "dressier" look (throwing on a pair of classic sneakers with a suit, or throwing a vintage denim jacket over your shirt + tie look). Casual-ling up a look, however, is not accomplished by simply leaving your shirt untucked. I see so many men, especially in the nightlife scene, wearing the same shirts they wear during the day, but because they are at "play" and not at work, they change their trousers for jeans, lose the tie and leave their shirts untucked - with shirt tails ballooning past their back pockets.

An untucked shirt does not make a look more casual, just more sloppy, bordering immature. So today's tip is quite simple: when in doubt, tuck your shirt in! (Yes, even when wearing jeans).

With that said, not all shirts need to be tucked in, but you should know the difference. The vast majority of button-down "dress" shirts are long through the body and are meant to be tucked-in (hence the extra fabric in the tail which prevents the shirt from becoming untucked with your day-to-day movement). There are other shirts, however, which are meant to be left untucked - these are shorter, slimmer cut and hit just past your hips (see cuts by Band of Outsiders or American Apparel).

One last thing...If you are wearing a tie, a waistcoat/vest, a cardigan, a v-neck, or basically any other kind of sweater/layer over your shirt (other than outerwear), ALWAYS tuck your shirt in. The shirt ends poking out from under your sweater are not flattering.

Yours in style, DT

Hey all. Sorry I haven't posted in the past few days...they've been a little crazy. On Tuesday I lucked out and was named Esquire Magazine's "Best Dressed Real Man 2009". Thanks again to those who voted! It has been a great experience thus far...

You can check out the Esquire article here, and watch the clip of The Today Show below.

In the past 48 hours I've worn make-up for the first time (for tv), done several photo/video shoots and a number of interviews, started a collection of business cards, and quickly made hundreds of new facebook friends. It has been a blast riding the wave of my fifteen minutes of fame.

And to the surprising number of people who have asked...yes I am single ;)

Yours in style, DT

Hey all. Just a quick heads up that I'll be featured on The Today Show tomorrow morning. NBC, 9:30am.

Be sure to tune in!

Yours in style, SB